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Tuesday, January 26, 2010

what i do for fun



I spend way too much time reading food blogs these days. And trying recipes. So far my greatest success, I think, was a variation on this basic lentil soup (the one in the body text -- I added bratwurst and a bunch of curry), but I also liked these biscuits, this cabbage soup (lots of parmesan is key!) and this pasta (I should have used more water, oops).

Smitten Kitchen continues to be my favorite day-to-day food blog, just for how freaking pretty it is, but currently my heart belongs to Orangette. I started at the beginning and have been reading my way through toward the present. It feels like sitting at Molly Wizenberg's kitchen table, eating amazing food (with dessert!) and hearing all about her lovely life. Especially at the beginning, also, it made me REALLY want to go live in Paris, at least for a little while.

Thursday, January 21, 2010

Heimweh

The weather's been a little better the past few days, like Frankfurt's sort of vaguely starting to remember that there's this thing called spring. The snow that had been on the ground for weeks finally melted, and I decided it was time to start riding my bike to work again, now that I wasn't so scared of hitting an ice patch and dying.

And it's been really great, except for the part where I learned about a rule of the German road through a guy on a bike yelling "Rechts vor links!" at me as he cut me off the other day. Or so I thought -- turns out according to the rules of the German road, I was actually cutting him off, because unless there is signage to the contrary, the person on the right has the right of way, even if the person on the left is CLEARLY on the main street and the person on the right is flinging himself bodily into the middle of traffic.

When I learned what the deal was, from my coworkers, I was all, "This is a stupid rule! Who the hell would ever think of that?" But it's not a stupid rule -- it's just not a rule that makes sense to me. This is not my culture. And yet I've lived here before, and I speak good (though far from perfect) German. I find it too easy to forget that this is not my culture. It's not that I feel equally comfortable here and in the U.S.; it's that I feel comfortable enough. A lot of the time, where living in Germany is concerned, I know just enough to be dangerous, to think I have it all figured out, even though I should know better. I don't know why I feel like I should have it all figured out. I have at least one moment of "how do you do ___ here?" or "how do you say ___?" every single day. I've lived in Germany for a little over a year, versus a little over twenty-two years in the U.S. The U.S. -- the middle of the East Coast, specifically -- is where I'm from. I don't know why it should surprise me that my reaction to traffic laws that are not the ones I grew up watching my parents apply, that I learned myself, is, "Well, that's stupid." What I'm working on is getting past the initial moment of "that's stupid" and accepting that's it's not stupid but rather DIFFERENT, and that that's how it is here.

But oh, getting yelled at in the morning for something I had no idea I was doing wrong really makes me miss being in the U.S. sometimes, where my twenty-two years of being steeped in the culture help me a lot more than my one year and change do here. Not that I never have moments of not knowing what the heck is going on in the U.S., particularly in NYC, but I felt like I had it together a whole lot better in New York than I do here, and that, among other things, makes me miss that city acutely.

Indulge me for a minute.














Saturday, January 16, 2010

lazy saturday



Instead of cleaning my apartment (my big goal for the weekend), I went on a run, ate leftover lentil soup (more delicious with added curry), and made myself hot chocolate with one of my Nikolausmänner and lots of cinnamon. It's nice to have a no-travel weekend.

Monday, January 11, 2010

snow in spain







I met up with Katie and Lexy in Madrid this weekend. Usually (the previous two times I'd been to Spain!) a lot of the point of going to Spain in the winter is that it's warmer that Germany. This was not so much the case in Madrid! There was snow. Snow! And lots of it!

Madrid, however, was excellent. I geeked out intensely at the Prado (every. Spanish. painting. I. had. ever. studied! except for Guernica! but then we went to the Reina Sofia and I saw it, too.) and met up with my coworker's son's friend's sister for coffee and ate my way through half of Madrid before Katie and Lexy arrived and we tapa-hopped our way through the other half. Particular highlights of the tapa tour included Basque cuisine, in particular the bomba. This is a bomba, on the right.



Basically it is a huge fried delicious version of shepherd's pie, with gravy. We decided that Basque food is an all-around winner. We also liked El Brillante, near the Atocha train station.




El Brillante might not look like much from the outside, and it violates every single bit of Katie and Lexy's rule about not going to places that advertise using pictures of their food, but it came highly recommended by my German guidebook, and with good reason. The calamari sandwich (bocadillo de calamares) was completely delicious enough to be deserving of the restaurant's self-bestowed title "best in Madrid."

Being in Spain again made it very evident just how bad my Spanish has gotten (not that it was ever particularly great), and also made me really want to improve it. So! New Year's Resolution número uno: better Spanish.

Sunday, January 3, 2010

silvester and the new year










I spent my first Silvester (New Year's, in Germany) with my friends Katherine and Suz. It was the first time we'd all been together since studying in Freiburg -- fitting that Freiburg was the location for our reunion. We consumed stupid amounts of homemade sausage and beer at Martins Bräu and drank caipirinhas at Stadttheater (delicious) and danced until the wee hours of the morning. On New Year's Day I hung out with Katherine and her parents. We went on a fruitless search for Chinese food, ate pizza at the train station, napped, and went to Eugen Keidel Bad and soaked in outdoor mineral water pools while it snowed. I bought a bathing suit for EUR 18,80 that turned out to be surprisingly decent. We ate Turkish food at Divan and rolled ourselves to bed, and awoke to bright blue skies and the world crusted with fresh snow. Frankfurt didn't get any snow yesterday, but it did this morning -- for the first time I understood the appeal of running in the snow. Sitting around with coffee and the computer feels like a reward afterwards.
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